How to Rekindle Your Dog's Recall Abilities

With the beautiful weather and the snow gone, we all renew our commitment to get out and walk the dog. The fields and the forests call to us: finding new trails, going off trail, getting lost. (Thank goodness for that trusty GPS to find our way home!) And with all this rediscovered freedom, our dogs' once decent recall disappears the way of the dodo bird.

Get Back to Basics: Build Value for Desired Responses

It's hard to build value while on the walk, especially when the bunny poop calls. Start at home.

1. Take your dog's breakfast and walk around the yard. Call him and reward him when he comes.
2. When he won't leave your side grab his collar and give him a reward.
3. Take the exercise on a walk.

Remember to always reward by placing the reward close to your body so the dog has to move towards you to get it. Playing hide and seek on your walks also builds lots of fun into finding you and keeps a part of your dogs brain thinking about where you are.

Tips for Maintaining Recall

1. Avoid calling every time your dog goes too far. Your dog will think "if I go far, I'll get called and get a reward".
2. Call him once, twice maximum. Calling him over and over again without his coming to you reinforces that your call is optional.
3. Vary your route. Your dog is more likely to pay attention in new surroundings. (Especially with young dogs who are still establishing their comfort range. Regular trail changes keep them close.)

Have a wonderful time out there walking your dogs and appreciate this amazing weather. It won't be long until we start complaining about bugs

!

Spring Is Here, Honest It Is

With spring in the air we are lucky enough to have Kathryn Pentland-Bruck as our guest blogger this month.  She has some great information to get through mud season.  Thank you Kathryn for sharing your knowledge with us.

At last - Spring is finally here and along with it comes the beginning of one of the busiest times of the year for the pet grooming industry.

 

Just as we humans are excited about being able to shed our winter coats, boots, hats, mitts, scarves and heavy clothing so are our pets. And so begins the race to get Fluffy, Max, Riley, Mr./Mrs. Whiskers -whatever your beloved feline/canine family member’s name may be - in for a good groom including a short Spring trim. And for those with double-coated pets a good brush out to get rid of all that loose undercoat which suddenly seems to be clinging to everything and moving like little tumble weeds through your home. Where the heck did THAT come from?

Just as we feel better after a long period of time without a bath/haircut so do our pets. Can you think of a time where you got really dirty or maybe simply weren’t able to bathe/shower as often as usual (say after a weekend of camping) where you longed for a good clean up and felt like a million bucks afterwards? I truly believe the same goes for our pets. I’ve seen many pets come into my salon and after a good groom suddenly seem more happy, playful and energetic.

So what can you, the pet owner, do yourself either as part of your home grooming routine or while you’re waiting to get into the groomer because when you called they said, “We’re booked solid for the next 2 weeks now that the warmer weather’s arrived”?   There are 3 main things.  Note - the following tips should also be followed year round and may even help to keep your grooming costs down.

Brush your pet – regardless if it’s a dog, cat, rabbit,…if it has fur - just like people who have hair - it needs to be brushed on a regular basis. There are so many benefits to this. 1) It will help to keep your pet’s hair from becoming a matted/tangled mess. Typically matts and tangles = total shave down/buzz cut as in most cases it’s the most humane thing to do. Note - while matts and tangles may be brushed out it’s slow going, painful (for both the pet and the groomer) and expensive (for the pet owner). We groomers don’t have a magic wand which we can waive to suddenly transform this into this,..although it would be nice if we didJ

 2) It helps to remove loose undercoat for those double coated pets – think Huskys, Shelties, Malamutes,.. 3) It helps to keep the skin healthy – helps to keep things like hot spots, dandruff, infections,…at bay, and 4) It’s a great way to bond with your pet. Think of how nice it feels when someone else washes your hair and gives your head a lovely massage,….mmmmnnnnn. Tip – when brushing your pet it’s very important to get right down to the skin. I’ve had many a customer come into the salon and look at me in complete bewilderment when I say I need to shave their dog due to matting regardless of the fact that, “they get brushed on a regular basis”. Imagine if you will that your hair is 10 inches long. You can brush your hair as often as you want; however if the brush doesn’t come into contact with your scalp 9 ¾ inches of your hair may be glorious; however that remaining ¼ inch of hair attached to your scalp will likely be ¼ inch of hot matted mess – also known as a pelt. Now imagine how it would feel to try to brush that out? It would be like trying to brush several packs of chewed sticky bubble gum out of your hair.    

If you bathe your pet at home it is very important that you brush their hair/fur really well prior to doing so! 

Keep your pet’s nails short – I have lots of clients that bring their pets, in my case dogs, in to have their nails trimmed and/or grinded for a variety of different reasons: 1) They’re nervous about doing it themselves – especially with dark coloured nails, 2) They don’t know how/aren’t comfortable doing it, 3) They can’t do it themselves, or 4) They don’t have the time or desire to. Whatever the reason is fine. I’m happy to do it. Regardless who attends to your pet’s nails there are things you can do to help keep them shorter. 1) Ensuring your pet gets lots of exercise. There are many reasons why this should be done. Nails is just one of them. 2) Ensuring your pet comes into contact with rougher surfaces – i.e., walks on the asphalt, concrete or sidewalk for example – please don’t do this in the middle of the day on hot/sunny days, 3) Playing with your pet’s feet. Even if you don’t trim their nails. Having your pet comfortable with having their feet/paws handles will make the process much easier for whomever does trim their nails, and 4) Regular inspections of their feet/paws, pads and nails. So you know if there are changes and when the nails are too long.

Which may leave you wondering how do you know how often your pet’s nails should be trimmed? Well the most obvious signal is when you can hear them making the “tick tick tick” sound when your pet moves about. Can you hear your pet before they enter the room? If so, as Jeff Foxworthy would say, “There’s your sign!” Are your pet’s nails circling around and starting to grow back into your pet’s feet/paws? If so it’s definitely time to have them attended to! As a general rule think of how often you trim your own nails? I suggest that pet owners bring their pets in monthly for nail trimming if, for whatever reason, this isn’t part of their home grooming routine. It’s a short appointment, isn’t very expensive and ensures your pet isn’t in pain. Long nails on people aren’t the same thing as long nails on pets.     

Keep your pet dry – This doesn't mean your pet can’t get wet; but there are a few things to think about. Each time your pet gets wet if they have existing matts/tangles those matts/tangles can be worse. It’s like putting a wool sweater in the dryer. If you have a double coated pet it’s very important that they get thoroughly dry after being wet or you could find your pet is suddenly very smelly and has oozy patches on their skin – hot spots. When drying your pet be sure to get all the coat dry not just the top coat. Like brushing you need to ensure ALL the hair/fur gets thoroughly dried – right down to the skin.   

Well dear readers I hope you’ve found this information to be both helpful and interesting and that it provides you with the ability to enjoy the onset of the nicer weather with your beloved family member to the fullest! If you’re in the Kemptville/North Grenville area, or surrounding areas, and are in search of a dog groomer please visit FurrificDogGrooming.com or contact me at either info@FurrificDogGrooming.com or 613-258-1010. 

How To Survive Cabin Fever with the Dog - Part 3

How to Survive Cabin Fever with a Dog - Part 3

Indoor activities can be just as challenging and tiring for your dog. In the final part of our "How to Survive Cabin Fever with a Dog" series, we will explore how to teach your dog to do tricks. The methods prescribed here are the same methods that are used with zoo and marine animals.

As we reward our dogs for responding to our commands, we're essentially shaping his behaviour. But let's not kid ourselves; shaping is a two-way street. Just as we shape our dog's behaviour, they shape ours. Our dogs figure out patterns that get our attention when they want it.

But this blog isn't about who shapes whom. It's about how to train your dog to do tricks. 

What you'll need:

• a box (you will be asking your dog to push it with his nose, pick a size that will work for your dog's size
• a ball any size will do (for advanced tricks)
• a hungry dog (just before feeding time is a great time to shape)
• small treats

Phase 1: Getting Your Dog to Offer Behaviours

1. Prepare yourself ... don't put the box down until you're ready to reward any interaction.  Have rewards ready in your hand.
2. Set yourself up for success by doing this in a quiet area without a lot of distractions.
3. Sit on the ground and put the box down in front of you.
4. Reward your dog for any interaction with the box. If he smells the box, reward. If he hits the box with his paw, reward. As long as he is working, thinking or moving in relation to the box, reward.
5. After about 10 treats, pick up the box and put it away.
6. You can return to this activity as often as you like; don't exceed 10 treats at a time. Give your dog some rest in between shaping sessions. After you get your dog to consistently interact with the box, you're ready to move onto phase 2. 

Phase 2: Working Towards Something

1. Decide on a trick. Start simple. For illustration purposes, we'll be asking the dog to push a box with his nose.
2. Close the box so your dog is more likely to concentrate on the outside of the box.
3. Because of his experience with the previous phase, he will expect to be reward for any interaction with the box. However, since your goal is to get him to push the box with his nose, only reward him if he interacts with the box with his nose.
4. After a few rewards for any nose interaction, only reward nose interaction on the side of the box.  To make this more likely to happen when you present the reward put it on the side of the box you would like your dog to touch.
5. When the nose interaction moves box, give him a handful of treats. Once you reach this point, the only time you reward  is for a moving box.

Phase 3 : Increasing Difficulty

1. Repeat phases 1 and 2 with a ball instead of a box.
2. Decide where you want your dog to push the ball (for example, through a doorway).
3. Only reward when your dog moves the ball in the direction of the goal.

That's it! Teach him to take the ball to different spots. Try giving him a cue. You can even wait longer before  you reward him for moving the ball. Eventually your dog will push the ball around without expecting a treat from you because the ball game has become self rewarding.  Check out a video of Oakley learning how to move a box around.

Hope this series has given you some great ideas to keep your dog fit and exercised through the winter. If you missed the first two parts, here they are:

• Part 1
• Part 2

What kind of tricks are you going to get your dog to do? Let us know in the comments below.

Happy shaping!

How to Survive Cabin Fever with the Dog - Part 2

How to Survive Cabin Fever with the Dog - Part 2

There are many activities you can do with the dog indoors during the winter months. Indoor winter activities offer you a chance to get back to basics.  To reinforce good behaviour, so you're ready for outdoor activities when the weather is more favourable. No matter how well-behaved and responsive your dog is to your commands, here are a few activities that will help ensure that he continues to respond favourably to your commands.

The activities in this blog are presented in increasing level of difficulty. Be sure to master the first two exercises before attempting the third. Once you've mastered the third, you're ready to take the activity outside on a warmer day! 

Call / Recall

Purpose: To build strong recall in your dog

What you need:

• Treat

How to play:

1. Stand approximately 2-feet away from your dog with a treat behind your back
2. Give the recall cue (for example, your dog's name or "come")
3. Take a step back and offer the treat

Increase the difficulty by:

• increasing the distance between you and the dog before providing the recall command
• taking multiple steps back prior to offering the reward
• whispering the recall cue from a distance

Collar Grab

Purpose: To ensure your dog moves towards you when his collar is grabbed

What you need:

• Treat
• Non-retractable leash

How to play:

1. Put the leash on your dog

   

   Step 2 of Collar Grab

2. Hold a treat and leash in one hand
3. Slide the other hand down the leash
4. Grab your dog's collar with the sliding hand and provide the reward with the treat hand - watch the video

If your dog is not used to having his collar grabbed, he may back away from you at first. Don't despair. Practice the exercise until he moves towards you when you grab his collar.

Call / Recall

Purpose: To make your dog come faster

What you need:

• A partner
• Treat (both people should be armed with treats)

How to play:

1. Person-1 holds the dog by the collar
2. Person-2 moves about 10-feet away and says the recall command
3. Person-1 lets the dog go and Person-2 moves away from the dog (the dog will pursue Person-2)
4. When the dog catches up to Person-2, Person-2 provides a reward at knee level

Repeat the exercise with Person-2 holding on the collar and Person-1 providing the recall command.

Increase difficulty by:

• increasing the distance between people before providing the recall command
• increasing the speed at which Person-2 (the "treater") moves away from the dog

Once your dog has mastered this activity, hide before you give the recall command. Start with easy places like hiding behind a big piece of furniture within the same room or on the other side of the kitchen island. Increase the difficulty by hiding in a closet or a bathtub. Reward the dog when he finds you with treats, a big cuddle, or even running around the house screaming. They love that excitement.

If you need some help with these games, your recall in general or any other doggie issues, we have a winter special on.  Two one hour private sessions at your home for $104.00, that's a 20% discount.  This offer will be valid on first appointments booked before April 1, 2015.  There will be a charge for locations outside of the Kemptville/Winchester corridor.

Did you find some great places to hide? Share your favourite hiding spot in the comments below!

In part 3 of our "How to Survive Cabin Fever with the Dog" series, we will look at shaping. It will give you the tools to teach your dog all sorts of tricks. It's the same method for training dolphins at Sea World

How to Survive Cabin Fever with the Dog - Part 1

Bored and waiting for me to amuse them

The holidays are over but winter is here for another couple of months. While there is nothing prettier than a sunny winter day, it can be downright cold. Most of us prefer to stay indoors and hibernate. The same can be said for some dogs, especially the small or short coated ones. But being cooped up inside staring at each other isn't an option. This is the first of a three-part series that explores activities to do with your dog during the coldest months of the year.

Fitness is an integral part to a balanced lifestyle for dogs. Much like our own fitness goals, we are looking to give our dogs:
            * a strong core,
            * agility, and
            * confidence in how they use their body.

Strength and stretching training can help prevent injury from sudden movements like when a squirrel crosses your path and keep your dog acting young well into old age. Give these simple exercises a try.

Balancing Act

Purpose: To build core strength and body awareness to handle changing and unstable environments.

What you need:

* Board
* Foreign objects to stick under the board

How to play:

(1) Begin by teaching your dog to get on a board.
(2) Once your dog has mastered getting on the board, put a small stick or towel under the board to make the board wobbly. Get your dog to get on the board.
(3) Have the dog move around on the board.  Every time you reward, reward on a different corner the dog will move to get the reward.
(3) Increase the challenge by sticking other foreign objects under the board to make it more unstable.

Check out our video on YouTube to help you better understand the steps.

Step 1

Core Strength

Purpose: To build core strength.  A strong core supports the spine and vital organs.   Best of all it’s a really cute trick.

Step 2

Goal: To have the dog stand on his bum (beg or sit pretty)

How to play:

(1) Begin by sitting in a chair with your dog sitting between your legs looking away from you
(2) Put a piece of food just above his nose and closer to his forehead

Step 3

(3) Reward any front paw movement, your are tying to get your dog’s front paws off the floor
(4) As the front paws come up off the ground, you can support your dog with your legs.  Slightly squeeze your legs helping the dog support his body.  As your dog gets stronger you can diminish the support until he can do this independently.

Step 4

Learn More

Shake-a-Paw will be holding a Canine Conditioning:  Intro To Fitpaws® course starting Sunday, February 1 at 11:30am. Join us and get your dog fitter and healthier than ever before!

Final Product

What do you do with your dog to remain active in the winter months? Comment below!

In part 2 of our "How to Survive Cabin Fever with the Dog" series, we will look at an indoor game to make your recall stronger and faster.

What is Scent Work?

Canine Scent Work or Nosework is a fairly new sport modeled after detection training for professional narcotics or bomb dogs.  It offers dog owners an opportunity to allow their dogs to explore their natural scenting ability in a safe and controlled environment.  The sport uses the scent of different essential oils that can be easily purchased and stored by the average person.  Dogs are taught to hunt/search for “target odours” in a variety of settings to create a mind challenging and extremely fun game for your dog to play.  Training usually begins indoors with box or container searches, and then advances to room searches, outdoor and vehicle searches.

Scent work is suited to all types of dogs and owners whether you practice for fun or competition.  Many human and/or canine disabilities are easily accommodated, as are behaviour issues including dog reactivity.  Classes and competitions are run so that each search is done individually by one dog and handler team working at a time, allowing dogs with issues to focus and learn.  Working without social stressors allows the dog and handler to be free to concentrate on the search.  As the sport is relatively “low impact” it is great for young puppies, elderly dogs and dogs with injuries.    

The sport encourages dogs to be independent as the owner has to believe in the dog’s ability to find the target odour.  It gives the dog an outlet to do what comes naturally and just “be a dog”.  This helps to promote the dog’s confidence and builds a trusting relationship between canine and owner. It also provides intense mental stimulation and many behaviour issues are reduced because the dog’s desire to search helps develop self-control and focus.

This post was written by 

Lee Anne Rogers who we are lucky enough to have running our scent work class in January

Lee Anne Rogers has been training and competing in various dog activities for 15 years.  In 2013 she graduated with honors from the Professional Dog Trainer program at Animal Behavior College and is currently taking courses from “Ethology Institute Cambridge”.  She actively competes in Agility and Nosework with her English Springer Spaniel “Drifter”.

Lee Anne is working on completing the requirements to become certified as a Nosework Instructor through the “National Association of Canine Scentwork®”.  She has attended seminars for Nosework with Ron Gaunt, Amy Herot and Jill Marie O’Brien and she recently participated in a 5 day K-9 Nosework camp in Pennsylvania where she learned from some of the top instructors.           

How to Introduce Another Animal into the Family

We have been very lucky to introduce a new family member this summer.  Her name is Penny and she is a very cool coloured cat.  I thought I would share how I go about introducing my animals to each other.


Introducing a new animal into the household is always stressful. You have a happy cohesive group and any changes might not always work out the way you hoped. Familiarity is the key. Be it a new kitten, a new puppy or even an adult animal the approach is similar.

Safe Zones

Creating a safe space is vital. Coping with change is easier when you feel safe. The same applies to animals.

1. Create a safe zone for the new family member. X-pens and crates work well but baby gates also do the trick. This is a space intended for the new member only. No other animal should be allowed inside it.
2. Ensure the safe zone has all the necessities: water, food, toys, and litter.
3. Provide something for the new member to hide in or behind if she gets scared.  A crate or even a box will work.

The Introduction

1. Put all other animals away, in their crates, outside or in another room behind a door.
2. Introduce the new family member to the safe zone.
3. Once the new family member starts to explore her safe zone, release the other animals one at a time.  If you have multiple animals start with your calmest and work your way up.  Take your time.

When you release the others, they will run over and sniff the safe zone. This will likely scare the new member. Let them be unless you end up with unacceptable behaviours such as; non stop barking, aggression, charging, etc. They will soon get bored and go about their day. The animals (old and new) will sniff and interact with each other through the barriers of the safe zone.  

The Great Release

Once you see that the animals have reached a level of familiarity, you are ready for the release.

1. Have only one animal in the room, again starting with your calmest animal.  Wait until everyone has settled down and are not standing at the gate waiting.
2. Open the safe zone to allow the new member to come out and investigate. Make sure she can ran back to be safe whenever she feels the need.
3. Allow the animals to interact under your supervision.  Be prepared to intervene but at the same time don't panic.

Building familiarity takes time ... for both old and new

Safe environments are required for both animals to get comfortable with each other. The length of time required before everyone is comfortable varies. Don’t force it. 

Work with the existing group is required. Remember basic training principles and reinforce the good behaviours. Having multiple animals can offer interesting training options. For example, if the old dog barks at the new puppy (excessive barking remove the old dog), toss treats into the safe zone so the puppy gets a reward every time he got barked at.

Build up freedom little by little. Taking the time to make introductions is the foundation to building good relationships within your family.

What have you done to introduce your new animals? Share your strategies and tips by commenting below!