How to Teach a Dog to Not Jump on People

Meeting people always seems to be a stimulus for jumping. To get a handle on this undesirable behaviour, establish in your mind what you want to see instead of jumping: sitting. In this exercise, you'll be rewarding your dog frequently so I recommend using your dog's dinner as a reward.

Establishing the alternate behaviour: reinforcing the sit

Practice the "sit" command repeatedly when walking your dog. Throughout the walk, call his name and ask him to "sit". Reward him for sitting every time with some of his dinner. Build some "stay" into the behaviour by using multiple rewards for every sit, don't forget to release with an "OK". If your dog gets really good at this, make it more challenging by trying to get him to sit while you are still moving.

Preparing for the greeting

Once you have mastered the "recall" and "sit" commands on your walks, you're ready to try the next step: meeting people.

As soon as you see someone walking down the street, call your dog and ask him to sit. Reward him. Say "OK", move a few steps, and ask him to sit again. Repeat this until you know your dog is starting to lose his brain because the person is getting closer. At that point, stand on the leash where it touches the ground, while still holding the handle. Reward him continuously as long as he remains seated. Stop rewarding him if he gets up. Don't worry, as long as you have your foot on the leash, he won't be able to jump or lunge.

Success comes with practice

Repeat this with everyone you encounter. Build value for the appropriate behaviour. Keep working on it. Your dog's jumping history and his general fondness for people will dictate how long it will take before he understands that he shouldn't jump on people. Regardless of how quickly he gets it, continue to reinforce his ability to sit when people approach.  When you feel he understands to sit when approaching people start to increase difficulty by calling when the person is closer and closer.

If your dog is strong or a handful on leash, try having two leashes on your dog: one leash in your hand, the other leash under your foot. This gives you the ability to prevent the jumping while not letting go of the leash.

Let me know how you make out by commenting below!

How to Overcome a Socially-Challenged Dog

He lunges. He barks. He's just unruly when faced with ... well anything. There are a number of reasons why it happens but knowing the reasons doesn't make it any easier for you to take him out in the public. These kinds of dogs get left at home because their behaviour is unpredictable. Especially if they are large dogs because their unpredictability becomes a liability.

Dogs that lunge and bark on leash are "reactive" in nature. Some of these dogs are pretty well-behaved off-leash but they are seldom off-leash because their on-leash reactions cause everyone to be scared of them. Reactive dogs can react inappropriately to anything.

Causes of Inappropriate Reactions

Dogs can exhibit inappropriate reactions for a variety of reasons. For example, when he sees another dog, his reaction can be triggered by:

• Fear - he's afraid of the other dog
• Excitement - he's thrilled to see another dog (unfortunately, the excitement usually looks like aggression)

Whether the reaction is fear or excitement, it's probably due to a combination of breed, temperament, and past experience.

Taming the Reactive Dog: Basic Obedience

Our ideal dog is non-reactive: one who watches dogs (for this blog we are talking specifically about dogs but the training applies to other distractions) go by and doesn't care. Training "no reaction" (alternate behaviour) is always a challenge. I see correction commonly used with these dogs.  Correcting a frightened dog puts him further into a state of fear. Correcting an excited dog just gets him more excited. Let’s start with some basics:

Step 1: Basic Obedience. Your dog needs to respond to three basic commands: sit, come, and walk on-leash.

Step 2: Introduce Controllable Distractions. Does your dog respond to commands when you don’t have his full attention? He needs to be able to disengage from the environment and respond to your command immediately.

If you’re finding step 2 difficult, you’re not alone. Shake-a-Paw’s new “Confidence & Composure” class is designed to teach you how to enable your dog’s journey to becoming a non-reactive dog.

What makes your dog go nuts? Share your story below!

How to maintain good behaviour in your dog

The notion of treat training causes many people to shudder. While the differences between treat training and positive reinforcement of desired behaviours may be subtle, the results are polar opposites.

Positive reinforcement is not about the prepackaged synthetic meat in the shape of a fire hydrant that you buy at a grocery store. It’s about rewarding desired behaviours to reinforce good manners.

Redefining Dog Treats

We want our dogs to behave at all times, treat or no treat. To achieve this, we need to shift our perspective on treats. Let’s start by calling the recognition of desired behaviours a “reward”.

A reward can range from a biscuit to a good belly rub or a pat on the head.  Simply put, rewards help build value for good behaviours. For example, asking your dog to sit before giving him his dinner reinforces the sit behaviour. His dinner is the reward.

Like humans, dogs assign value to rewards. Some are highly desirable while others are just nice to have. It all depends on your dog’s motivation. Dogs who are motivated by food assign a high value to edible rewards. Others who prefer play over food will assign a higher value to the play.

Iggy and I at a recent competition.  Results
achieved by the appropriate use of rewards.

Building Behaviours Independent of a Reward

The trick is to make sure the behaviour is not dependent on the reward. Let’s take the case of getting your dog to come when you call his name.

“Mac ... Come!” He ignores you. You call him again, this time, you show him a biscuit and then he comes. He arrives at your feet and you give him the biscuit. Does that sound familiar? This pattern teaches the dog to come only when there’s a biscuit. This is the result of treat training.

Always be prepared to reward your dog for responding to your command. Break free of the tendency of letting him know that there’s a reward for his response. Remember, a reward can be anything that your dog likes and the value of a reward is dependent on your dog’s motivations.

“Mac ... Come!” If he comes quickly, give him with a high-value reward. If he responds slowly, provide him with a lower-value reward like a hearty “good boy”. Regardless of how quickly he comes, he’s being recognized for obeying your command. This positive reinforcement approach teaches him to obey your command independent of a treat.

It’s a Lifetime Commitment

So, do you have to reward your dog forever? Yes! Reinforce the behaviours you want to maintain. Reward him with a healthy balance of affection, food, and the occasional treat.

What’s your dog’s motivation? Share the key to your dog by commenting below.

"Dogs + Winter + Action = Cool Photos " using an SLR Camera

Did you get a fancy new camera for Christmas this year (or for me a few years ago :)) and have no idea how to get those awesome pictures you know are possible.  We are very lucky to have a guest blogger this month, Erika Anderson from Erika A. Photography.  Erika gives us some suggestions to get those great shots of your pets.  If you feel you need to watch a pro in action, then come visit us during one of Erika's ACTION winter photo days at Shake-a-Paw's outside agility field in (3400 Wallace Road) South Mountain on Saturday February 22.  Cost will be $70 for 30 minutes.  That includes 5 images emailed at 8x10 size chosen by you from a online gallery.  To book a spot for the pictures from 1pm to 4pm send us an email at info at dogtraining.ca.  If you have been reading our blog, Erika did all the pictures in our December series Holiday, Company and Dogs.

Now here is Erika

After adopting my first Border Collie mix in 2001 I started photographing dogs and cats. Since then, many people often ask me what camera I use to get the fun shots of dogs outside.  I always laugh because I don't believe its the camera, but your technique and artistic eye.  Of course practice and patience are a key element to photography in general, but understanding your lighting will make or break the image.

So lets take your typical winter day, during a snow storm or right after when it is cloudy and/or dull outside.  Look around you, there are no shadows.. Perfect for photos??!! Yes :) Think of the ground, it is all white, perfect to reflect natural light. Think of the snow as a soft light from below, just like the soft light from above.

 Look into the eyes of Breeze. You can see reflection from below and above.

This creates a soft even lighting for the dog.

Lets check out a photo taken on a winter day but with the sun as a bright bold light!

This is when you have to watch your subject  more closely, checking for shadows and making sure the sun is not behind or directly in front of your dog. Look into Abby's eyes, you can see that the main light source is from above, with a slight reflection from below thanks to the snow. This fills in the shadows under she chest and surrounding areas that with out the reflective snow could end up dark.

Now that you can see how the lighting provides the right contrast and balance to a photo, we will now figure out our shutter speed. Something that every photographer needs to capture the ACTION!

Action is all about speed, so the higher the shutter speed the faster your camera will capture the image. Faster the image is captured the less blur you will get.

So the image above is taken on a sunny day. The sun will definitely make your shutter speed fast. The more light you have, the faster your shutter speed can capture the image. Take note where their shadows are, this tells you where the light source (the sun) is coming from. In having the light in front of your subjects (Abby and Fae) it creates a darker backdrop, enhancing the blue sky. Everyone loves a blue sky :) Plus it add's more details to the snow.

And then you ask, well what if its not sunny... How do you get a high shutter speed on a cloudy/dull day?

Your ISO option now comes into play as an important roll.. 

This is like when you would buy film and the options were, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600.  All digital SLR's have the option of many different ISO's. The down side to pumping them up to 1600+ is you tend to get what looks like grain or no usually sharp images. Most of the time if you are shooting during a cloudy snow day you should be fine at 400 ISO. On a sunny day 100 ISO

Now get bundled up, bring some toys and get shooting!  Practice, practice practice, with digital there are endless possibilities.  The way to learn is to experiment until you reach your snowy photographic goals.

Thank you Erica.  

We would love to see how your pictures turn out.  Send them in and we will add them to our picture gallery on the website.

Holidays, Company and Dogs - Part 3

Old habits die hard. Once you’ve had a dog a number of years, he (and you) will have established some habits. Save yourself from the frustration that comes with retraining and manage his habits instead! In this third blog of a three-part series on surviving the holidays with your dog, we will explore a few strategies for dealing with dogs with well-established habits.

Easiest Management Option: Separation

Don’t feel badly about separating your dog from the company. Separation will make your evening much less stressful. Bottom line, separation is all about protecting your dog. If your dog isn’t uncomfortable in a situation, he will be happier being separated.

Separation can be achieved in a variety of ways: a crate, an X-pen, an outdoor kennel, a bedroom or a basement. Whatever the space is, make sure:

1.      Your dog is relatively comfortable (outside won't work in the Canadian winters with a short-coated breed)

2.      No one can enter unless you allow it (sometimes, a bedroom may be too easy for someone to walk into without your knowledge)

3.      The space is sound proof (protect your dog and your guests from excessive noise)

4.      You give him a bone (separation anxiety can be easily rectified if your dog has something else to focus on)

If such a space is not possible, consider keeping the dog with a neighbour or at a kennel.

To Separate or Not To Separate … That is the Question

Protecting your dog is the main goal. Be realistic with your expectations. No one knows your dog better than you. If your dog appears uncomfortable in a situation, get him out of it! Don’t expect your dog to “deal with it” because chances are, he will deal with it in a way that is not satisfactory to you.

Here are a couple of common occasions when you may wish to consider separating your dog:

• when people arrive
• if your dog is uncomfortable with people (it will depend on how many people are coming, sometimes bringing him out later in the evening might work best)
• if your dog steals food (he only comes out after the food is put away)
• if your dog is not great with kids (he can come out when you can pay attention, keep him close on a leash, reward lying quietly with you)

The cardinal rule for when dealing with dogs and company: Be aware of what is going on and be prepared to remove your dog from the situation

Holidays, Company and Dogs Part 2

In this second part of a three-part series on surviving the holidays with your dogs, we will explore a few strategies for dealing with puppies.

by Erika A. Photography 

Everyone loves puppies, but it's amazing how many bad habits a puppy can learn at one family gathering. Yes, you will tell everyone "don't pet him if he is jumping" or "don't feed him from the table" but company, especially family, will ignore you completely. Don't expect your company to train your dog; it never works out.

This is your opportunity to establish some great habits in your puppy or dog (no matter how old) about how to behave when there new people in your home. The ability to roam around when the company is around is a privilege, not a right. Your dog has to earn that privilege through good behaviour.

Setting the Scene

(1) Make sure the dog is well-exercised before your guests arrive.
(2) Set a timer for bathroom breaks if there's a lot going on.
(3) Contain the dog until you are able to give him your full attention (or a member of your family). Try a crate in the party area so he gets to be part of the action but not in the action to misbehave or to steal food.

Introducing your puppy to guests

by Erika A. Photography 

Before you make your rounds with your puppy, keep the following in mind:

• Use a leash when the puppy is out of his containment area.
• Have some good treats on you.

Now that you're equipped, wait until your puppy is calm. As you make your way around:

1. Step on the leash at each guest to prevent jumping, rewarding any and all good behaviour.
2. When you are done making the rounds, have a seat with a dog pillow beside it.
3. Have him lie on it and again rewarding generously for lying there quietly.
4. When you want to go back to enjoying the party take him out to potty and put him away.

As the dog gets older, allow a little more freedom each time. Do the rounds, sit him on his pillow and if he has settled for a few minutes, take the leash off and let him wander around. Does he behave as you had hoped? If so, leave him loose the rest of the night, always keeping an eye on him. If not, go back to basics.

Watch next week for strategies on how to deal with company and an adult dog.

Holidays, Company and Dogs Part 1

The holiday season is a joyful time full of gatherings and occasions. It’s easy to forget the effect all this can have on your dog. Everyone has the picture of the perfect dog: one who walks calmly over to the company, gets a little pet, and then lies in the corner until the company leaves. He never jumps, never steals food, and never gets uncomfortable when people touch or corner him. This is rarely the case. Let’s be realistic. If you’re busy cooking dinner and playing host, you may not have time to constantly monitor the dog with your company.

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Keeping your dog and company safe begins with protecting the dog at all times. What can your dog truly handle? Remember, your dog is used to sleeping all day. All of a sudden, everyone is home for a week and then you add company. All this activity can lead to an overtired dog which can be a recipe for disaster. Protect your dog.

This is the first of a three part series on strategies to make your holiday gatherings go smoothly. This week, we're going to prepare for the arrival of company.

Preparing for the Arrival of Company

Before the company arrives, take the dog for a huge run. The 60 minutes you spend here will make the rest of the day much more peaceful.

Have a plan for the dog when the company arrives. Here are a few tricks to try:

1. Put the dog outside, in a crate or in a room until everyone is in and settled. This avoids the dog getting out or jumping and licking while people are trying to get their boots and coats off.
2. Throw a handful of kibble in the backyard before you answer the door. This will keep your dog busy hunting so he doesn't bark the whole time when the guests arrive. Do this regularly enough and when the doorbell rings your dog will run to the backdoor to be let out instead of running to the front door to greet the company. 
3. If your guests are arriving close to feeding time, feed the dog before they arrive. Not only does this get it out of the way, full dogs settle easier.
4. Create a safe space for your dog. Make sure there is somewhere he can go when he has had enough. Keep a bedroom or a basement door open where the dog can go and be alone. This will allow your dog to make the right choice of leaving when he has had enough. Once he has left the party, respect his choice. Leave him alone.  

Remember, not everyone loves your dog like you do. You may allow your dog to do things like curl up next to you on the couch but your company may not be comfortable that. Rather than constantly harassing the dog for behaving the way he is usually allowed, give him a big juicy bone and put him away until the company leaves.

Next week, we'll explore some strategies for puppies and company.